Waiting for the launch today
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From Sicily to SardiniaFrom Sicily to Sardinia
July 10 to 13, 2021
In April we got the chance for a Covid-19 vaccination here in Sicily. It was quite a surprise during breakfast on a Sunday morning. There was chatter in the marina that the major hospital in Ragusa was having an ‘Open Vaccination’ day. Meaning anyone could come and get vaccinated. The vaccination type concerned us. Which manufacturer would we get? Regardless, we went to the hospital straightaway and despite our language barrier cleared all the hurdles. The regional authorities of Sicily and Italy pushed hard for a high vaccination rate and were so kind to vaccinate also non residents like us (for free!).
We waited three months in Marina di Ragusa for our second shot, scheduled for early July. The city of Ragusa had established a vaccination center in an unused Basketball Court. Luckily this time, we could choose and got the Pfizer vaccination
The last days before departure and still some repairs left.
Damaged 14mm Shroud near mast top. Was accidentally sheared twice during production. Requires replacement. We were lucky it held up so long. Was a long process to get it replaced.
Misaligned mainsail mast track high up in the mast. Not a straightforward repair as the drill holes were not centered. This defect destroyed many batten cars 🙁
Standard Reefing set-up chafes and damages the luff of the mainsail. Installed very different setup for all three reefs. Works much better now.
Our rudder wheels are hard to turn. One of the rudder cable guide wheels is not moving freely. We have a clue now which one it is. (Not this one). These wheels are hard to access behind walls in cramped locations. Will work on this in Carloforte
Weight and Balance.
Our Nautitech has large usable storage spaces forward in the bows. It became natural to store things there until we found the boat had become nose heavy. Not good for sailing performance. We had to move a lot of weight aft. Our second anchor, chains, heavy ropes, tools and more. Distributing the lot in the bilges was not as straight forward as it sounds. Every bilge segment has sensitive stuff installed. Thruhulls, depth-sounder sensors etc.
Extricating all the heavy stuff and moving it to their new locations on the boat was exhausting in the hot and humid weather. In the end we got it all done plus ticked off all the to-do items on our seaworthiness task list.
Saturday July 10
we checked out of the marina and said good bye to the marina staff.
At 12:25 we cast off the lines for our destination Carloforte. We have 3 nights at sea ahead of us. For whatever reasons nights on sea always count more than the days. Probably a little bit because of the sleep deprivation, but nights sometimes generate uncomfortable feelings. Especially dark nights with no moon and clouds. Those nights can be eery.
The Weather looks good.
Heading west from Sicily in summertime is a compromise between sailing and motoring. Like all sailors we don’t like sailing long stretches upwind. We chose an upwind leg close along the southern shores of Sicily followed 36 hours later with the crossing from Sicily to Sardinia. The forecast had a light southerly wind position for a nice beam reach to Sardinia (Stop dreaming captain!!). In reality we had the upwind sail which was actually quite nice followed by variable and calm winds.
Back to the start. It is hot on the water. We keep the AC running until late night. Makes the cabin feel like a luxury hotel foyer. You come inside from the heat and a wonderful cool chill surrounds you.
With the weight balance of the boat shifted towards its center, the upwind performance improved a lot. At a true wind angle of 50-55° (TWA) and wind speeds around 20kts the boat sailed 8 knots. Waves were 1 meter or less. We experienced way less slamming because of the lighter bows. We were happy with the ride and the performance of the boat. We could sail angles up top 45º true at lower speeds naturally. The VMG remained nearly the same. Sailing more directly into waves was less comfortable, hence, we staid with the 50 to 55º angles.
Clearly the boat does not like a nose heavy trim. (No boat likes that)
A 45ft monohull following us could not keep up with us upwind. Admittedly their sails were not trimmed very well. It seems we did well balancing our boat.
Banco Terribile
The first large bank we passed around is called Banco ‘Terribile’. I don’t know how the bank got its name, but probably for a reason. Several shallower large sandbars are on the way there. What looks like so much space on the charts becomes much more crowded out there. At certain wind and current setups one wants to stay clear from the ‘Bancos’. These bars are typically 10m deep but show unruly wave patterns and a lot of fishing vessels on the fringes around. About ‘Banco Terribile’ it is also said that white sharks reproduce in these waters.
Banco Silvia
The second night we had a very clear sky. Stars without end and easy to see the milky way – fascinating.
Often, late in the night, the fishermen entertain themselves with an unmistakable porn radio show on the VHF Channel 16. This kind of happening appears to be a common thing in these latitudes. Today ‘Ole, Ole’ songs replaced it. Italy must have won the EM soccer championship.
This night is also very warm and pleasant. During the watch, long after midnight, a T-Shirt is enough to keep comfortable.
Approaching Sardinia
The Third and last night we arrive at the island shelf of Sardinia.
We tried to time our arrival to Carloforte for around 5am. So we would have some reserve time for delays underway. The weather forecast had predicted strong winds from 10am onwards. We wanted to be in port and docked before that.
We arrived at the island shelf right after nightfall. Ship traffic became heavy and the watch more demanding. Even so visibility in general was good, this night had no moon and full cloud cover. Other vessels could only be detected by their navigation lights. Especially with smaller boats there were few clues for early detection.
The last mile into the port of Carloforte I deemed risky for night entry. The ferries run in after nightfall. But they drive this route many times every day.
There is one way, in between many rocks, marked with a magenta line on the chart. There is limited space to port and starboard. While most of the underwater obstructions are supposedly deeper than our draft, who am I to try and find out if the charts are really accurate. Two black yellow cardinal markers are shown below in the picture. They only exist on the chart. Not on the water.
July 13 0730h Docked in Carloforte.
330nm in 2 days and 19 hours, lots of engine hours and no white sharks.
Arrival Prosecco
Ah yes, (waiting) the obligatory docking Prosecco.
Sailing to the Bahamas – November 2022Sailing to the Bahamas – November 2022
From Cape Charles to Eleuthera.
Day 0
Passages on Lunara always begin with ‘Day 0’, the day before leaving. Day 0 means a lot of work and stress. Most of the time ‘Day 0’ is many days of work and waiting for the right weather window. Our initial plan was to sail to Antigua with a stop in-between on Bermuda – our long-term dream destination. This year’s tropical storm season dragged on in the mid to South Atlantic and lasted longer with many active tropical depressions. The last one, Nicole, was heading up from Florida along the Eastern Seaboard early November. The unpredictability and possibility of tropical depressions convinced us to shorten our trip. We are sailing to the Bahamas! It’s not like we feel as losers after arriving here.
On November 11, we reviewed the weather forecast seriously and decided to leave on the 12th. Weather looked ‘doable’ but timing of where to position the boat at a certain time had to be perfect. A fast moving cold front following us meant strong northerly winds against the Gulf Stream, a combination which will generate a very unpleasant crossing and at worst a dangerous situation in the Gulf Stream. It’s not without reason that this area bears the name ‘Graveyard of the Atlantic’. “Over 5,000 ships have sunk in these waters since record-keeping began”.
Look at this link Graveyard of the Atlantic
Starlink
In the past weeks, we saw many sailboats with an unknown antenna on deck. New electronics always make me curious. It’s called Starlink, a satellite-based internet service. We had heard about it before, but its rumored cost of $5000 per month was ridiculously expensive for the maritime version. What we didn’t know was that a RV (Camper-van) subscription exists which is available for $135 per month 😀. The RV version was allegedly working in coastal waters (which it does!)
We ordered it. Days later, and 15 minutes (!) after opening the package, the system was up and running. Uncomplicated like an Apple product. Download speeds of up to 150Mbps right out of the box – wow! Elon Musk created another game changer.
It’s a great addition to cruising, providing a fast and reliable internet anywhere you are. Super for updating Predictwind’s weather forecasts. Over the old Iridium Satellite system, this could take hours. The only drawback is, we are not untethered anymore; not really off the grid. We’ll see how this thinking evolves.
Further prepping for long distance sailing we hauled out in September. LUNARA was on land at Severn in Hayes VA. Work was okay but there were some issues with the work, with which we are not so happy about. This southern area of the Chesapeake is a wonderfully quiet countryside with marshes. And, if you desire some action you could go to Newport News or Norfolk and you are in a busy city in a short time.
Electrical trouble – again. Honestly, on this subject can’t be much left to do onboard Lunara. Four of our 90Ah Lithium batteries died. They had become completely unbalanced between their cells and the BMS (Battery Management System) refused to switch them on for usage with the inverter or 12V DC bus. During the installation in La Rochelle in France, there was a low of 9V shown in the voltage history. The lithium (LifePo4) batteries should have lasted easily 10 years. The lesson learnt is that a low voltage, under 2.25V per cell, might not kill the battery right away, but definitely shortens its life cycle dramatically.
We added four new 200Ah Victron Lithium batteries for a total capacity of 1160Ah. That should be more than enough. This required rebuilding a new battery rack, as the old batteries had a different form factor. We got a hydraulic crimper to squeeze on the large terminals onto the cable ends. The Admiral and I have become pretty good with electrical stuff, thanks to “YouTube University” and lots of practical experience.
Coming back to leaving Cape Charles. We prepare to leave at 04:00h in the morning. A last weather check at 03:30h in the morning showed a narrowed weather window for crossing the Gulf Stream. As we do not want to be wreck number 5001 at Cape Hatteras, we postponed for another 24 hours.
Day 1 – Sun Nov 13
At 09:00 we left dock with NW winds gusting 25knots blowing right onto the dock. Our boat neighbor, sailing a sister ship of Lunara, helped casting off the lines. In the gusts the boat did not want detach from the dock, but ultimately we made it. We motored through the narrow channel into the Chesapeake and set the large Genoa with no mainsail. There is one more narrow passage ahead of us, a Bridge – Tunnel – Bridge combination (Chesapeake Channel Tunnel). Hence, no mainsail until there.
Hours later we leave the Chesapeake Bay and enter the Atlantic. A large commercial vessel anchorage surprises us in nowhere with many waiting vessels.
The night, we sail along the North Carolina coast in cold choppy waters. The Admirals stomach was protesting. It was chilly. Off watch, I needed two duvets and my sleeping bag to keep warm.
Day 2 – Mon Nov 14 2022 23:50 – 100nm East of Cape Hatteras
We made good progress on our way to the Bahamas. The first 48 hours didn’t feel like keeping my diary up to date. A cold, wet, windy and bumpy ride. Approaching Cape Hatteras the water temperature rose gradually from 18º C to 22º, while the air stayed chilly. Went into Gulf Stream near Cape Hatteras and crossed it late afternoon. Clearly steeper waves of 2 – 3 meter (6 – 9ft) with whitecaps, but no breakers. Water temperature is now a warm 26º while the air temperature needs a while to catch up. Later-on we are back to t-shirt sailing, while hours ago we were curled up in multi-layered clothing.
We are now on a southerly heading, nearly direct to Eleuthera Island. Weather forecast is good, meaning no challenges ahead (I keep my fingers crossed).
The Autopilot heading data disappeared on Ray’s night watch around 02:40h. The autopilot uncoupled. Rebooting the system fixed it. I could not find a cause for this error. (Finger crossing did not help 😞)
Day 3 – Tue Nov 15 2022 16:30 – 400nm north of Eleuthera (Bahamas)
Averaging 8 – 9kts all the time. Wind veered to 110º from the former northern direction. Blowing with 20- 25 knots. Sailing with a first reef in the main and a small staysail. T-shirt weather continues, even though it’s cloudy. Wind is supposed to lighten up into the night. If not, we have to put the 2nd reef into the main.
Wave action was more friendly in the morning – see breakfast photo of our friend Ray.
Now it’s bumpy again, also because we are sailing faster and more upwind into the waves.
We keep ourself busy with Lunara cosmetics – like here with some rigging work.
Day 4 – Wed Nov 16 2022 12:00 noon – 330nm north of Eleuthera (Bahamas)
‘Designer’ summer is back with us. ‘Designer summer’ I call weather, if it is like you would design it, if you could: 26ºC/80ºF, blue sky, some puffy clouds and 15kts wind.
Over night we stayed with the second reef and a staysail. A leftover decision from the 20 – 25kts winds during the afternoon. We were quite slow by now, averaging 4 knots after midnight. At daybreak and watch changeover we set full mainsail and the big genoa and now sail upwind with 6.5kt again. We seem to have some current going against us with 0.4kts. According to the Predictwind ocean current model we have gone some miles too far to the east and hit a small Gulf Stream eddy.
Day 5 Thu Nov 17 2022 03:30h – 260nm north of Eleuthera (Bahamas)
Sunrise or sunset? What is more beautiful? I can’t decide looking at all my photos. What I do know is that on land I love sunsets, while at sea I welcome the sunrise so much more. It’s like a relief that the sun made it back – especially after a moonless night. Sometimes, at sunset ahead of windy nights, I tell her: please come back tomorrow morning. So far that wish was granted.
Weather changed to a tropical character. Otherwise moon and stars with 16kts wind. Wind is supposed to veer into a more favorable direction at daybreak. During the night we were followed by some windy rain squalls. We tried to dodge them with limited success.
Great lunch. galley boss aka the admiral tried the new air-fryer. Yes, we ‘needed’ one – so I was told. I agree now.
Day 6, Fri Nov 18 2022 180nm to Southern tip of Eleuthera
Last night enjoyed on my 0300 to 0700h morning watch a beautiful sunrise.
Day passed by sailing upwind all the time in 15kts wind. Sometimes bumpy, but the galley was still workable.
Cloudy day. Set the Gennaker (colorful sail). Winds are light with 12kts from the north. Hoping to arrive tomorrow early evening (19th)
Late afternoon a gusty cold front passed through, but nothing exceptional.
Our friend Ray kept a diary with very nice pencil sketches. Good way to keep memories. It was his first offshore trip.
Tonight no moon, yet, and a clear starry sky. Looks fabulous. Even the Milky Way is recognizable.
Day 7 – Sat Nov 19 2022 early morning, 35nm to Marina Cape Eleuthera
Rainy, squally, variable winds from a lot to nothing. Earlier morning started one engine to keep the heading. Later quietly sailing again. Looking eagerly forward to the first Caribbean drink in the marina bar
15:30 Marina in sight but still 4nm to go.
Docking was ‘substandard’ for the Horn crew. Boat didn’t touch any pilings or the dock, but it was chaotic. We were probably a little too tired to function in a coordinated fashion.
887nm over ground with a 14989nm total for LUNARA. We are close to the 15000nm mark! This trip, we averaged 6kts with very little engine time except for docking here and leaving Cape Charles. We used our small stay sail and the second reef for most of the first 5 days and then switched to the Gennaker combined with the full mainsail.
What’s next? Some Boat TLC in the marina and touring Eleuthera then heading over to the Exumas. Yesterday, I changed oil on both engines and the generator. Exhausting work in the heat. The engines need to be hot to siphon the oil out. Working in the engine room with 50ºC required pours of cold water over my head from the stern shower to keep working.